Marker Making – A Science Behind Cutting. By: Vineet Kaushik
Marker making is the most important step before cutting the fabric. It is the process of assigning a position to the pattern over a lay in such a way that the wastage of the fabric will be minimum. It helps to achieve the most efficient layout.
Saving an inch of fabric can result in great saving over the whole production. The larger pieces are generally placed first and small pieces are fitted in where possible. The main purpose of Marker making is to increase the Machine Utilization (MU). In order to get the full use of fabric the marker is planned in such a way that it touches near the edges of selvedge.
Manually we perform a hit and trial where we try to squeeze the pattern as closely as possible and the wastage will be minimal.
Manual Marker Making
Though these days marker making has been simplified by software solutions many prominent brands like Optitex, Tukatech, Gerber, Lectra are offering marker making solutions within their software package they are real boon to Fashion and Apparel Industry .
Through computer generally the marker maker achieve 1 to 4% higher fabric efficiency in companies producing fashion goods, while in ordinary circumstances through manual marking 80% material utilization can be achieved and through the use of software it can be achieved to 95%. Some export houses find a small improvement in the marker efficiency when they switched to computer marker making, but the result was great because even a small improvement in material utilization add up fast!
Marker Making using Lectra's - Diamino Software.
Marker Making and Design Issues :)
Through the use of software, we can do matching of Patterned Fabric (plaids, check and strips) can be matched using computer-based marker making. Garments pieces must be placed on the fabric where patterns will match, and not where the panels fit closest together, material utilization is decreased when matching patterned fabrics. Because of increased fabric and labor costs, garments with matched patterns cost more than garments with unmatched patterns.
The larger the pattern, the more fabric required to match it (as the repeat of design take after one complete cycle of the design) and if the pattern is uneven than also we need to look for the repeat and place in such a position so that a design could appear continuous
Matching Plaids, Check, Stripes.- May decrease Fabric utilization
Though these days the manufacturers are playing smartly they do matching at the most noticeable places like at the front placket of a buttoned shirt, others cut the fabric of pocket and placket on a bias or sometimes they use solid color for pockets and cuffs and this way they reduce the fabric and labor cost.
Various methods of marker making.
Manual Marking with full-size pattern
The planner works by moving around with the full size pattern until a satisfactory plan is obtained, the planning is done directly on the fabric to be cut and the pattern shapes are marked on it instantly, this method requires considerable skill and experience but it is economical for single or less garments, Most of the boutique house and customized production still use this technique.
it is followed where small number of copies are needed, here the basic carbon paper is used. The purpose of this method is to make various plot of markers using carbon paper which can be further used to cut the lay in the previous manner.
Diazo Photographic Method
This process makes as many copies of the marker as are needed, here the master marker and a light sensitive paper are passed under high-intensity ultraviolet light and a light-sensitive paper is developed using ammonia vapour. It is one of the clean process which can make unlimited no. of copies with good line definition, thus a very handy process which is helpful in marker making over various lays.
Computerized Marker Making,
The system consist of a visual display unit with keyboard, tablet and data pen, puck or mouse, the quality of marker planning in computerized marker marking is more consistent than with manual method because instruction regarding grain lines are always followed ,there are no chance of overlapping and the pattern count is automatic. However, if we compare the cost factor between manual marker making and computerized one there is a big difference and it depends upon the size of the manufacturing unit as well. In manufacturing units where the production is much more the computerized system is inevitable because a small percentage saving in fabric can mean saving large amount of money.
Digital Marker Making - By Lectra Systems
(Image source - Linked with Image)
Marker efficiency is the ratio of fabric used in marker planning while cutting to the ratio of the total fabric spread
Marker Efficiency = (Area of the total fabric used in marker planning / Total fabric spread over the table)*100
Manually we can use a mechanical device to calculate the area of fabric used in one ply and then multiply by the total no. of plies. In case one finds difficulty in measuring it can also be done by weighing. Calculate the total weight of the fabric to be used after cutting and the weight of the total fabric before cutting
Sometimes, Marker Efficiency is confused with Fabric Utilization, In marker efficiency we don’t consider wastage due to end bits and end loss while, in Fabric Utilization wastage due to end bits, end loss is considered.